新潮45 1985年6月号　天皇の「日記」を捜せ 岩川隆

Originally opened in 1969, Paris, as “Jungle Jap”, KENZO debuted in Paris collection in 1970. Kenzo Takada, founder and designer, was born in Hyogo Prefecture in 1939. Knowing that the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo has begun accepting male students, he dropped out of college and went to Bunka Fashion College. He went to France in 1965 after graduation. After showing at Paris collection, his dress using kimono fabric was worn on the cover of “ELLE”, thus allowing him to join the circle of top designers at the time. He quickly became one of the designers who represents the fashion industry in Paris during the 70s, known for his brilliant flower print patterns and designs influenced by ethnic costumes from around the world. In 1993, the brand joined LVMH, and in 1999 Takada left his position as head designer. After variety of designers, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took after the position to hype up the brand. From July 2019 onwards, Felipe Oliveira Baptista designs for the brand.

Established by Issey Miyake in 1970. In 1971, the first collection was announced in New York, and since 1973 they began to show in Paris. Miyake, founder and first designer, was born in 1938. He studied at the Tama Art University and the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. Miyake’s dress-making is consistently based on the concept of “one piece of cloth” from the beginning of the debut, and the root of the relationship between the body, the cloth that covers it, and the balance that occurs between them. The brand also invented a material which they had studied from a level of a single thread, and in 1988 they announced their pleats piece which later became a brand of its own “PLEATS PLEASE”. Currently, young designers inheriting Miyake’s DNA manages their design team. From 2020, Satoshi Kondo designs for their womenswear line and their design team designs for the menswear line, consecutively developing the brand’s other lines such as “PLEATS PLEASE”, “HOMME PLISSÉ” and “BAO BAO”.

The brand was founded in 1993 by Miuccia Prada, grand daughter of Mario Prada (founder of Prada) as a separate line of Prada. The brand is popular for its strong individuality, unique use of contrast and an avant-garde style. Miuccia was born in 1949, and studied politics at University of Milan, graduating with a doctorate. The name MIU MIU comes from Miuccia’s nickname as a child. Originally the brand showed their collection in Milan, but in 2004 they began showing in Paris. Currently they produce a wide range of items from womenswear, bags, leather goods, shoes, jewellery, eyewear and perfume. MIU MIU Aoyama store, which had moved and renewed in 2015, was also designed by Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed Prada Aoyama store that is located across from each other.

Fendi was launched in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi as a fur and leather shop in Rome, Italy. The pair gained their reputation by introducing fur coats inspired by fur collars that were popular in Hollywood at the time. In the 40s, their five daughters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda joined the company and the brand quickly developed. In 1965, Karl Lagerfeld, only 27 at the time, was assigned the brand’s chielf designer until his death in 2019; many iconic items were produced, and the brand had acquired a place amongst other top luxury brands representing Italy. After Lagerfeld’s death, the third generation of the Fendi family, Silvia Fendi unified and directs all of the brand’s designs. Silvia has worked with Lagerfeld since 1992, known for it-bags such as the Baguette and Peekaboo.

The brand was founded in Milan, Italy, in 1978 by Gianni Versace. The Medusa is used as the logo of the brand and has received attention since the debut together with their gorgeous style. Along with Giorgio Armani and the late Gianfranco Ferre, who were just as popular as Gianni at the time, the three designers were called “3G” from the first letters of their names, and led the Italian fashion industry. Gianni was born in 1946 in Reggio Calabria, Italy. In 1997, he was shot to death in Miami, USA. His sister, Donatella Versace, took over the brand after Gianni’s death. Donatella had been helping her brother since she was a college student and was entrusted with their diffusion line “Versus.” Donatella added seductiveness and the glamorous atmosphere in addition to their previous brand image.

Founder Dries Van Noten was born in 1958, in Antwerp, Belgium. Born into a family of tailors, he joined Antwerp’s Royal Academy at the age of 18. After graduation, Dries and his 5 friends at the academy (Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee) showed at an exhibition in London, gaining the reputation as the “Antwerp Six”. Soon, Antwerp gained popularity as the new head quarters of fashion. In 1986 the brand opened their menswear line, quickly followed by their womenswear line. Soon they joined Paris Fashion Week. The brand’s prominent style includes their unique prints and decorative fabrics, and their high standard of beauty can also be seen in the film “Dries” (2016). They celebrated their 100th collection in 2017.